Day 12 Sleeping Giant

Well, another decidedly mediocre weather day that worked to our advantage. Poor David was lamenting that he hasn’t been able to wear shorts since we left home! He might have yesterday when the temperature rose in the afternoon, but we were already out and going. By this morning there was no way shorts seemed the reasonable option! Once again though, we don’t do this for the weather, so we struck out for adventures south of the campground today.

We could get a picture of this friend while she made up her mind which way she was going to run.

Driving toward the hiking trails the skies became ever more threatening. The road went beyond the Kabeyun Trailhead so I suggested we keep driving to see where it led, while we decided just what the weather had in store. The road ended at a fascinating little town called Silver Islet.

In 1868 silver was discovered in a barren rock, measuring about 80 feet in diameter just offshore. The claim was purchased by A. H. Sibley and over the next 16 years $3.25M worth of silver was extracted and the town of Silver Islet grew at the end of the Sibley Peninsula! What remains today is a little town that looks so much little a Newfoundland outport that it’s remarkable! We drove through town and stopped to take pictures of houses built against rock faces, a waterfront that runs the length of the town and boats bobbing at the wharf. People were friendly and at the end of town we pulled into the General Store, mostly because it was the only place in town to park! Over an hour later we left the store with interesting stories, little treasures, full bellies and happy serendipitous memories.

As we walk in, we realized this wasn’t just a corner convenience store. The sign at the door announced EST 1871 and it was clear the cash register at the door had been there since then. The friendly lady and man behind the cash were chatting to another couple and explaining that the cinnamon buns were a special treat. Apparently one couple visiting last year enjoyed them so much they bought some to take home. They explained they had a tradition of buying a special treat they had enjoyed on vacation and bringing it home and freezing it. They took it out for a special treat on Christmas morning to help them remember the things they had enjoyed that year. The woman behind the counter told us she had gotten an email and picture from them at Christmas, telling them how much they were enjoying the treat. By this time Jonathan was at the back of the store chatting to some man behind a tea counter and was beckoning me over. With a note to self to check out the cinnamon buns, I joined Jonathan at the tea counter. The man here was showing Jonathan the safe that had been used in 1871 by the mining company. It was so big and heavy, apparently one of the first fire-proof safes, that it was left in the building and sold with the store! He was showing us the receipts from the 1870’s that were still in the safe. This man explained that the couple in front, behind the counter were the owners. They were friends of his and he loved to come down for a few days, help in the store and sleep in the upstairs loft for his visit. He was a wealth of information about the store and the area. He got out his computer and between stops to serve their local herbal blueberry lemon tea to customers, he showed us pictures of the area as it looked in 1871, as well as pictures of he and his wife kayaking above the mine. He had a drone and had captured perfect shots of the mine shafts in the water below them. He also had various artifacts including the felt hat worn by the miners with drips of wax on the top of the hats from the candles the miners wore on their heads for light a quarter mile below the lake.

The store was also filled with local art, curiosities and gifts items that were clever and related to the town and surrounding area. Local tea, Christmas tree decorations, and locally designed silver earrings all found their way into my basket.

Since the woman at the front was no longer busy with the last couple I made my way back to the store front to chat. The woman who owned the store had east coast roots. Her mother was born in Amherst N.S. She came to Thunder Bay for nursing training, met her dad and this woman grew up in Thunder Bay with grandparents in Nova Scotia. She explained that when they bought the store it was the original brick-red colour. While everyone was pushing to maintain the original colour, she said Silver Islet reminded her of an east coast town and she insisted on the bright blue exterior. Buildings by a foggy shore, need a coat of bright paint!

I told her how much the town reminded me of Newfoundland. This conversation led to the man at the tea counter explaining that his son had lived in St. John’s for six years and he could see what I meant when I compared the town to houses on The Battery! Funny small world.

Having to check out the cinnamon buns and intrigued by the local tea we found a little tearoom in the back of the store. The tables, chairs, décor, and table games were all left from a bygone era. It wasn’t hard to imagine the miners passing free time with a sweet treat and a game of checkers. Jonathan shattered me on the ancient checkerboard as we enjoyed the most delicious tea I have ever tasted. The cinnamon buns were very good, but the huge ginger molasses cookies we decided to try too may have been even better! This was all punctuated with happy chatter in the back room with the man who served our tea sharing stories of his travels and adventures. Just an absolutely delightful 90 minutes that might never have happened if the weather was better and the hike had worked out!

The islands surrounding the Silver Islet Mine

The only other place I have ever seen homes so embedded in rock is in The Battery, in St. John's.

The harbour

The gentleman who made our tea, showing Jonathan the safe and the receipts from 1870s

The cash register

The tea room, with my checker game waiting ... I shouldn't have bothered 😏

The kitchen where the tasty treats originate

The (Nova Scotia influenced) blue general store EST 1871

Store from the back           

By the time we left, while the weather wasn’t fabulous, the threat of rain appeared more threat and less likely a reality. The hike on the Sea Lion trail was moderately difficult, as advertised. The views at the end were certainly worth the hike, and the ever-present mosquitos were well behaved, for the most part.

A very wide and easy path, except for the 1km steady climb

A seal driftwood

Beautiful views

Star flowers, so perfectly named

The Sea Lion, looks more like Snuffleupagus - just me?

One more little hike over the Sibley River finished the afternoon and it was time to head home for some supper. The heavy cloud cover and chilly evening offered a good time for a board game before blogging and bed! We talked as we played our game that this stop has been a perfect example of things not happening as we planned, but being so much better because we welcomed the changes as they appeared! Maybe we will check a few more hiking trails off our list tomorrow…but maybe, something even more marvelous will happen!

With the leaves on the ground, appeared like a fall hike

Sibley Creek - the old saying "You can step over a brook, jump over a creek, wade across a stream, and swim across a river", doesn't hold. Maybe when it was named there wasn't as much water. maybe the storms of the last few night caused the creek to rise. Either way, no one is jumping over this!