Day 25 Grasslands National Park

On the drive from Winnipeg, I said we had moved onto the rural Prairies because I didn’t yet understand just how rural they could be! On our last visit we stayed on the TCH for most of the journey. Today we were on secondary, sometimes unpaved roads in southern Saskatchewan – now THAT’S rural! We followed the Red Trail, named for the route followed by the North-West Mounted Police in 1874. The men traveled west from Fort Dufferin to Fort Whoop-Up (great name). We could drive for miles without passing a car, or seeing a house. Last trip I remember commenting on Saskatchewan not being as flat as I had expected. Today on a different route than last time, though certainly flatter than a road trip through the Rockies, the undulating hills and valleys don’t scream flat in the way that I have imagined.

The raw beauty of southern Saskatchewan certainly does capture my attention though. The endless fields of canola continue but are now interspersed with the soft purple of their sister crop, flax. The contrast is striking! The differences in wildlife also demands notice as little green-winged teal ducks appear in roadside ponds. The tiny ducks are surprising in both size and number. No pictures unfortunately as we might never have arrived at our destination if David stopped every time I wanted a picture! The black-billed magpie and road-side hawks were constant visitors too. The mule deer with their comical ears were regulars on the ride as well. Needing to be careful of these guys necessitated some dipping and diving, a bit of a trick when you’re towing a trailer! By far the most frequent visitor today was the prairie dog though! During one section of our drive as we entered Grasslands National Park, they lined both sides of the road, standing high at attention, as our official honour guard and welcoming committee it appeared!

Just west of Verwood we drove through Castle Butte in the Big Muddy Badlands. The wind-carved buttes and sandstone ravines were a short, striking contrast to the fields of crops along most of the road. Although 55km long it is only 3.2km wide so it was a short bit of distraction. We passed solar farms, wind farms and drilling rigs. Saskatchewan is clearly doing its part in contributing to the grid. The journey was amazing but the destination – oh my!

Jonathan and Jenna travelling down the dirt road ahead of us between the canola fields

Years ago David worked not far from here in Swift Current. He was a field engineer supervising a wind energy project. These are today's version. 

Arriving at Grasslands National Park is breathtaking! The vastness and seclusion is difficult to describe. We first check in at the Visitors Centre in Val Marie, to learn the campground is still 42km away along a mostly dirt road. I believe this is the most incredible place I have every camped – and that’s saying something! Maybe it was the recent fear of wondering if we would ever be able to explore like this again… We have camping in the heart of the Rocky Mountains. It’s certainly no more beautiful than that… We have camped on the shores of the North Atlantic. It’s certainly no more beautiful than that… We have camped on Fundy shores, the Canadian Shield… countless other beautiful places, but man there is something incredible here.

I think a major part of this is the raw beauty. The isolation is striking. There are only 24 sites in Frenchman’s Valley. Nothing much had been done to enhance the experience. There are pit toilets, no running water, yet … here we are, speaking in hushed tones because the experience dictates it! People sharing the valley with us are also clearly share the same awe and respect. There is no noise. There are no raised voices. It’s not a “rule”. It’s just how it’s happening.  There are some hiking suggestions, but you are also invited to wander at will, respectfully. When we arrive and enter the camping area the wooden fencing obviously mimics that ranches of old that would have settled the prairies. When we arrive in our site the smell of prairie sage is intoxicating. The swallows flit about with their blue-black wings, cinnamon chests and forked tails. The prairie dogs pop about, squeaking notice that we have arrived! Poor Nola - the smells and constant movement of all the little critters may drive her insane! Poor pup!

Silver sage, and the smell is intoxicating

The rolling hills that surround us

Cactus is in bloom 💓

Still trying those panorama shots

Prairie dog burrows, that when abandoned can house burrowing owls, black windows, rattle snakes, and all manner of creatures. They are also everywhere, and great tripping hazards - step carefully!

Storms moving in

Not many water sources in this climate

We have adjacent sites! So much space.

The whole campground. There are only 24 sites in total, and not all of them filled.

Our paddock!

Whatever it is, or whatever combination of things it is, this place is incredible! I literally squealed when Jonathan reminded me we have six nights here. I thought it was five, so I will take another night. I already don’t want to leave! This is a great place for a special celebration!!

Celebrating camping style

Even mug-cake for the birthday boy 🎂