Day 28 Grasslands National Park
We are headed into a southwestern Saskatchewan heatwave. Now anyone who knows me at all know just how fond I am of hot. Out here on the prairie there is no shade. There is no water for a cooling dip. There is no place to hide. Sunscreen, hats, plenty of water, salty snacks, all mitigate the dangers of 34° heat, but planning for my contentment takes a little bit more! Jonathan returned early this morning from his wilderness adventure. The early sun and heat had him up and going early and he wanted to be back before the worst of the heat arrived. He had great audio clips of the coyotes barking and howling through the night. He had tales of heading toward Frenchman River in hopes of finding shade only to be driven back up on the butte by the unmistakable sound of a rattlesnake. He had bison come to check him out and decide either he was okay or needed watching, either way they bedded down for the night not far from his tent, so at least he wasn’t alone out there.
Fortunately, the park is so vast, so remote, and as parks
go, so new (2001), there is much of the park that is not developed and driving
loops exist to bring you through great swatches of the park. They are
rudimentary roads, dry weather access only, not heavily traveled, no cell
coverage, with some planned stops. Perfect for us on a day we would rather not
hike in the heat. We chose the 60km Back Country Loop that would let us finish
exploring most of the West Block of the park, and leave the East Block,
Badlands Parkway for tomorrow as that one is two hours away.
We packed the Jeep for emergencies (so we wouldn’t have one!)
and set out by mid-morning. I started out by dropping my camera in a prairie
dog hole! Some of those burrows are very big. My big concern was that abandoned
prairie dog burrows are inhabited by various other resourceful critters, including
rattlesnakes and black widow spiders. If that went all the way down the hole
there was not a snowballs chance that I was going in after it! Fortunately, as
it fell, the articulated viewing screen partially opened, and the camera was caught
across the top part of the hole. Jenna tried to help but was so afraid to make
the problem worse she stood back. A deep breath for a steady hand and I managed
to snag it and my dandy little camera lives to see another adventure!
This section of the park was peppered with the usual
suspects but new today were the startling number of grasshoppers along the road
and the sides of the road. Not surprisingly, the birds feasting on said
grasshoppers also numbered in the hundreds! When Jonathan would stop with
another shout from (usually) Jenna or me, we would walk along the road with
grasshoppers scattering in front of us like waves! Also new today were the
number of cattle grazing in that zone. Large animal grazing is a key component
in maintaining a healthy prairie ecosystem. Several farms and ranch sites exist
along our route, and I guess they don’t get many visitors, because the locals
were curious about us! We watched Pronghorn prance (the only word for it!)
across the fields to disappear in the folds of the rises. At one point I elicited
a chuckle when I describe that section as the Shar Pei of the prairie. The landscape
morphed along the 60km from open flat fields, rapidly rising to higher, sparser
buttes, from lush vegetation to a badlands canyon. The antelope played in the
Shar Pei section!
The most stunning stop of the day would have to go to the Borderlands
Lookout. We had a short but very steep climb with a car pull-off at the top.
Getting out of the car the elevation was clear and the breeze, though warm, was
enough to encourage us to follow what was clearly a trail. We were not misled! The
trail ended at the edge of an enormous canyon where the staff had placed two
additional red chairs. The view was breathtaking. We have talked countless
times about how blessed we are to live in Canada. It’s opportunities and diversity
are incredible. Today we also discussed how if things had been different, we
might not be here today. Our original trip would not have led us here. Today,
things being what they are, we planned an all-Canadian route. At the top of
that canyon, we were certainly reminded that there is no place prettier! We are
so blessed to live in a country with everything you could possibly want!

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